LHASSA : AUTOFOCUS

LHASSA : AUTOFOCUS

Lhassa, ici Lhassa, terminus. Assurez-vous que vous n’avez rien oublié dans le train’*.

Sur l’immense esplanade vide, gardée par des militaires en grande tenue, les haut-parleurs annoncent l’arrivée du train en gare de Lhassa. Par une sortie latérale, des milliers de chinois – et quatre malheureux touristes occidentaux – débarquent un peu hagards, Nikon dernier cri ou attaché case en bandouillère pour s’offrir une part de l’El Dorado tibétain. Comme me disait mon ami Dawa, en conduisant sa puissante Nissan sur les grandes avenues rectilignes, bordées de lampadaires kitch et de belles boutiques de luxe, ‘A Lhassa aujourd’hui, on pourrait se croire dans n’importe quelle ville chinoise. Heureusement il y a le Potala !’ Le Potala, l’ancien palais des Dalai Lamas dont les vertigineuses façades blanches, ocres et pourpres dominent la ville comme un vaste vaisseau échoué, ballotté par le ressac de l’insatiable consumérisme à la chinoise.

A l’autre bout du monde, au détour d’une ruelle, la paisible statue du Bouddha repose dans l’intimité du temple du Jokhang. Jeux d’ombres et de lumières sur les ors, les cuivres, les turquoises et les coraux, odeur forte du beurre que des pèlerins aux visages illuminés de dévotion apportent en file indienne vers le ‘saint des saints’, le cœur du Tibet, le temple des temples. Dehors, la foule, grouillante et bavarde, prie ses dieux, négocie son ciel et déambule entre les quartiers de viande de yak, les monceaux de beurre et les bondieuseries multicolores. La lumière incertaine du matin tisse dans les volutes de fumée odorante des fours à fumigation un voile d’irréalité.

A Lhassa aujourd’hui, la mise au point automatique est quelque peu difficile; les deux hémisphères de notre cerveau nous renvoient deux images du monde superposées, paradoxales et irréconciliables, comme un autofocus déréglé.. Assis dans l’ancienne demeure du VII° Dalai Lama transformée en hôtel de charme, en sirotant un café Illy de la meilleure facture, nous laissons à notre autofocus intérieur le temps de faire les ajustements nécessaires, de retrouver du sens. Et soudain, l’attitude juste s’impose comme une évidence. Personne d’autre que moi ne peut prendre en charge ce qui me dérange dans cette réalité si contradictoire et affligeante soit-elle. Je suis là, je participe, je suis affecté, dès lors ma seule option est d’en prendre toute la responsabilité, ce qui signifie l’accepter, se l’approprier, l’aimer car je suis la seule source de mes expériences…

Jérome Edou

De Lhassa, ce 1er Septembre 2011

* en chinois dans le texte

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