LA ROUTE DE MANDALAY

LA ROUTE DE MANDALAY

Il est des pays qui se découvrent à pied, d’autres à cheval ou en 4×4; la Birmanie (Myanmar) ne se laisse entrevoir qu’au fil de l’eau. Car ici l’eau est partout : dans le vaste delta de l’Irrawady, le long des canaux d’irrigation, dans les immenses rizières et sur les marais où se reposent des nuages d’oiseaux migrateurs – grues et oies barrées – venues du Tibet et de Mongolie.

Et sur l’Irrawady bien sûr, cette “route de Mandalay “ comme l’appelaient les Anglais, fleuve langoureux et tranquille qui, des Himalayas au golfe d’Andaman, nourrit le pays. Tandis que les barges paresseuses et les radeaux de teck louvoient entre les bancs de sables, défilent des pagodes par milliers dont les flèches dorées scintillent dans le coucher de soleil : Sargaing, Pagan, Mingun…
Imparables clichés certes mais qui ne peuvent que séduire ce vieil amoureux des chorten himalayens et qui retrouve soudain l’esprit neuf du débutant qui observe sans juger.

Observons sans juger ces moines impavides qui mendient, pieds nus, leur nourriture au coin des rues, observons la dévotion tranquille de ces femmes en peignes venues apporter des offrandes de fleurs dans les temples. Observons ces businessmen pressés qui ajoutent quelques feuilles d’or sur les visages des bouddhas qui finissent par ne plus ressembler qu’à de grosses cacahuètes dorées ! Et mon copain Thierry affirme même avoir vu dans une pagode de Hpa-an une statue de Bouddha affublée de lunettes en or, donation d’une riche famille de la région…

Car à Myanmar la religion est partout et on voit plus de monastères que d’écoles. Comme disait ce jeune novice à qui on demandait comment se passaient ses premiers pas dans la vie monastique : “Not bad, no busy mind”, que je vous ferai pas l’injure de traduire ! Et aujourd’hui, les Thaïlandais trop matérialistes en panne de vocations viennent chercher des moines sur les rives de l’Irrawady.
Il est bien sur des milliers de questions qui restent en suspend sur le rôle de la junte déguisée en civil, l’idolâtrie qui règne autour de la Dame de Rangoon, l’état de délabrement du pays et le business international qui gratte à la porte des généraux: vous trouverez tout cela dans Le Monde Diplomatique.

Mais, en évitant le Spagetti Blouse – qui n’est pas une version italo-birmane de la musique du même nom* – il faut aller s’asseoir au coucher du soleil au pied de la Shwedagon, la majestueuse pagode qui domine Rangoon, pour se laisser imprégner par l’âme birmane qui se cache derrière les clichés.


Jérome Edou
En collaboration avec Thierry Pacquier
Rangoon, Janvier 2013, sur clavier birman,

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