LA KYICHU N’EST PAS UN (LONG) FLEUVE TRANQUILLE

LA KYICHU N’EST PAS UN (LONG) FLEUVE TRANQUILLE

Aéroport de Lhassa. La jolie douanière tibétaine dans son bel uniforme noir à liserés blancs me demande si j’ai des livres dans mon sac. Je lui dis que, oui, j’en ai quelques-uns ‘mais aucun livre sale’, promets-je dans mon meilleur tibétain.

‘ – Non, non, nous ne recherchons pas les livres sales, nous recherchons seulement les livres inappropriés…’
‘ – Des livres inappropriés ?? m’exclame-je benêt, ‘Alors là, je peux vous assurer que je n’en ai aucun …’
‘ - Suivant !’

Ai-je rêvé la lueur furtive de complicité qui éclaire un instant son visage ?
Route de Ganden au Nord de Lhassa. En suivant la Kyichu, le (long) ‘fleuve tranquille’ en Tibétain, qui traverse Lhassa avant de se jeter dans le Brahmapoutre, un portique genre aéroport est installé au milieu de nul part dans ce cadre enchanteur. Arrêt de la voiture, fouille complète des bagages et passage dans un portique détecteur de métal. Au premier bip, fouille personnelle et… confiscation des briquets ! On n’ose imaginer que cette mesure soit la réponse trouvée par l’administration chinoise contre les immolations de Tibétains…

Quand toute autre forme de protestation a été écrasée par la force et dans le sang, il ne reste que l’horreur du suicide – et l’immolation est sans doute le plus horrible – pour faire entendre sa voix. Depuis 6 mois près de trente Tibétains des lointaines provinces du Kham (Sechuan) se sont immolés pour demander le retour du Dalaï Lama au Tibet, pour protester contre l’immigration massive et sponsorisée de Chinois Hans, l’éviction de la langue tibétaine dans les écoles, le traitement des moines dont 200 du monastère de Kirti ont disparu sans laisser d’adresse depuis plus 5 mois… La dernière en date, une mère de 3 enfants, s’est immolée devant le Jokhang, le temple le plus sacré de Lhassa. Après avoir tenté de nier l’évènement, les autorités chinoises ont immédiatement traités les impétrants de ‘terroristes’ et de ‘criminels’, et pour faire bonne mesure, ont illico emprisonnées plus de 600 personnes dans la capitale tibétaine.

Donc méfiez-vous du Guide du Routard (p. 342, inappropriée), du Lonely Planet (p. 228, inappropriée) ou de Tintin au Tibet (p. 23 inappropriée). Et pas seulement à l’entrée : la dernière en date fut la confiscation du Lonely Planet à la frontière vers le Népal. Authentique ! Vous qui espériez profiter de votre balade au Tibet pour bouquiner tranquillement sur l’histoire, la culture et la vie de ce pays, oubliez. Emportez du bon porno, allumez vos clopes sur l’allume-cigare de la voiture : ‘Rien dans les mains, rien dans les poches, tout dans la tête’ comme disait ce vieux camarde Léo (Ferré).
La Kyichu n’est plus un long fleuve tranquille…

Jérome Edou
Katmandou

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