LA CARTE N’EST PAS LE TERRITOIRE

LA CARTE N’EST PAS LE TERRITOIRE

Ce jour là nous avions décidé de monter à Lama Gonpa, au-dessus de Keyrong, capitale du Lahaul au Nord de l’Inde pour y faire une retraite de méditation.Après quelques heures de marche, nous atteignîmes le petit ermitage où une trentaine de nonnes faisait un grand rituel arrosé de chang, la bière d’orge qui, visiblement ne servait pas seulement à abreuver les divinités et toute la petite communauté semblait d’excellente humeur. Les nonnes nous accueillirent chaleureusement et nous demandèrent nos noms. Voulant être bien compris, je prononçais distinctement les deux syllabes, Jé Rom. Dans les hurlement qui s’en suivirent, je crus que les nonnes allaient s’évanouir : certaines firent un salto arrière, d’autres s’écroulèrent sur le sol cachant leur visage dans leur châle, d’autre me regardèrent dans les yeux, hilares, incrédules. Lorsque la commotion s’apaisa un brin, l’une d’elles m’expliqua : ‘’Jé, vient de Dorjé, synonyme dans la tradition tantrique de ‘sexe’ (masculin), et Rom veut dire gros et rond !’’ avant de repartir pour une tournée de fou-rire et de hurlements de joie…

Les jours qui suivirent furent difficiles ne pouvant traverser la cour du monastère sans soulever gloussements et quolibets. Inutile de préciser que ce fut la fin de mes velléités d’une paisible retraite de méditation dans ce petit ermitage himalayen.

Lors de l’ouverture de la route Lhassa – Katmandou en 1986, il n’existait aucune carte du Tibet récente. Le directeur de l’Astrolabe, fameuse librairie de voyage disparue (comme tant d’autres) aujourd’hui voulu publier une carte actualisée. Ayant déjà effectué plusieurs reconnaissances au Tibet, il me demanda de collaborer. ‘’Mais, me dit-il ‘’ pour ne pas me faire purement et simplement piquer ma carte, je dois cacher quelques erreurs qui me permettront le cas échéant de prouver le plagia’’. A la pause, je lui racontais ma (més)aventure lahoulie qui bien sûr le réjouis et c’est ainsi que sur cette toute première carte du Tibet sont apparues, au milieu des hauts plateaux tibétains, deux pics sommes toutes respectables, le Rigal (Ri Gyal la Reine des Montagnes, 6730 m) du nom de mon copain Jean Pierre et le Jé Rom à 6970 m.

Selon la rumeur, ils y seraient toujours…

Jérome Edou,
Katmandou 1 Nov 2013

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