PELERINAGE AU KAILASH

PELERINAGE AU KAILASH

Lorsqu’ils découvrent pour la première fois la montagne sacrée qu’ils ont appelée de leurs vœux et de leurs prières, pour la contemplation de laquelle ils ont entrepris ce dangereux périple, les pèlerins soudain exaltés par cette apparition, se prosternent dans la poussière et ajoutent une pierre sur le cairn qui marque la passe. Sans doute bien peu parmi ces pèlerins connaissent les subtilités de la métaphysique bouddhiste mais, au Kailash et souvent au Tibet, la dévotion prime sur la compréhension. Ils savent par contre depuis l’enfance que le Kailash a le pouvoir de leur assurer de meilleures réincarnations, de purifier toutes les fautes et éventuellement de les conduire à la grande libération prêchée par le Bouddha.

Le but du pèlerinage est d’effectuer rituellement le chemin qui « circumambule » la montagne. La plupart des Tibétains l’accomplissent dans la journée parcourant ainsi quelques cinquante kilomètres de sentiers souvent enneigés culminant au Drolmala, à plus de 5'700 m d’altitude. En cheminant, ils s’arrêtent quelques instants pour vénérer d’une courte prière grottes et sanctuaires ou de simples empreintes laissées dans la roche par les yogis et les saints du passé. Ici chaque pierre a son histoire et l’ensemble forme la légende du Kailash qui s’est enrichie continuellement au cours des siècles et que les pèlerins se transmettent oralement. Certains pèlerins effectuent treize fois le pèlerinage, d’autres le font en se prosternant à chaque pas, pendant des jours, comme s’ils voulaient épouser la montagne et ne plus faire qu’un avec elle. Qu’importe si la mort les attend sur le sentier, nul ne peut souhaiter de plus faste destin dans cette vie. C’est ce que rapporte la sagesse populaire Tibétaine :

Si tu reviens sain et sauf d’un pèlerinage,

Mieux vaut le refaire.

Si tu tombes malade, c’est bon signe

Mais mourir en pèlerinage

C’est vraiment ce qui peut t’arriver de mieux !

En gravissant péniblement le sentier escarpé qui mène au col, les pèlerins expérimentent symboliquement la mort du vieux « moi » en abandonnant un vêtement usagé sur le bord du chemin. Dès lors, purifiés du monde de l’illusion, ils atteignent finalement le col de Tara, la douce Libératrice et ils s’abîment un instant dans la contemplation de la divinité.

Par cette immersion totale dans l’univers du sacré, ils triomphent de la naissance et de la mort et peut-être pourront-ils en chemin voir  miroiter, dans les eaux oraculaires du lac Gaurikund, leurs prochaines incarnations avant de rejoindre le monde des hommes et de la durée.

Comment ne pas aimer cette sagesse d’un autre âge peut-être mais qui nous interpelle au plus profond de notre être ? Comment ne pas envier un peu ces pèlerins, rencontrés au hasard des chemins qui se sont offerts, après parfois des années d’économie, yuan après yuan, la route du Mont Kailash sans souci des biens matériels et des souffrances endurées ? Dans le tourbillon de l’Histoire qui emporta le Tibet, cette énergie du dénuement, cette âpreté à survivre, cette ferveur sans compromis sont, à l’image du Mont Kailash, un pilier qui les maintient debout dans la tourmente. Paradoxes accablants certes mais qui constituent le véritable héritage du Tibet dont nul ne revient indemne.

Jérome Edou
Ecrit en mars 2006

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