BHOUTAN : LE MOINE ET LE CHARPENTIER

BHOUTAN : LE MOINE ET LE CHARPENTIER

Tongsa, Bhoutan central, une petite Guest house de routier dans la rue principale. Amala, la maîtresse de maison et sa fille s’affairent autour du poêle en terre cuite pour préparer l’émadhasi, plat national bouthanais, agréable mélange de fromage et de piments ! Sur les banquettes, tout autour de la cuisine, a pris place une joyeuse bande qui savoure une bière et discute de l’avancement du travail de la journée : il y a Goetz l’architecte qui arrive juste de Kathmandou, Thomas le maître d’œuvre, Timi la restauratrice de statues, Simon le conservateur et le moine Thubten, le traducteur négociateur indispensable.

Financé par le gouvernement autrichien en collaboration avec le Bhoutan, cette équipe qui a déjà réalisé le Musée de Patan au Népal, est en train de transformer le Ta Dzong, la tour de garde du XVIième siècle qui domine la forteresse, en musée.

Debriefing autour du feu : les clous et les vis ne sont toujours pas arrivés de Siliguri et toujours aucune nouvelle du visa du charpentier de Patan qui doit faire les présentoirs, les pigments pour la peinture des statues se sont perdus entre Munich et la capitale bhoutanaise mais la bonne nouvelle du jour c’est que le toit du Ta Dzong sera en lauze et non en tôle ! Tournée de bière pour fêter cette victoire gagnée de haute lutte par Thubten, malgré quelques compromis sur le ciment…En effet le jeune roi, le Cinquième comme on l’appelle ici, est venu visiter le chantier et il a adoré le toit en lauze au point de vouloir faire recouvrir son propre palais de Thimphu à l’identique. Nul doute que d’autres vont suivre son exemple. Comme dit Thomas philosophe : ‘Parfois on arrive quand même à changer un peu le monde ‘

Dans un pays où la première route ne fut construite qu’en 1960, tout semble être venu du Tibet par la voie des airs : le Bouddhisme d’abord apporté par Guru Rinpoché le thaumaturge, qui arriva par les airs chevauchant une tigresse et s’établit à Taktsang, la Tannière du Tigre ; Drukpa Kunleg, le ‘fou divin’ dont la flèche lancée depuis le versant nord de l’Himalaya atterrit dans la vallée de Punakha où il fit souche ; les grues à tête noire qui migrent en hiver dans les hautes vallées des Montagnes Noires, et même certains textes cachés par des maîtres tibétains et découverts sur le versant sud par des tertöns(découvreurs de textes) bhoutanais. Mais pour Thomas, le réel est plus compliqué : ‘Deux ans et demi de travaux alors qu’il en aurait fallu cinq et ouverture prévue en mai prochain pour le couronnement du jeune roi ! Certaines pièces métalliques sont faites en Inde et arrivent par la route avec les retards que cela implique. Quant aux 150 ouvriers payés, on n’en voit qu’une cinquantaine sur le chantier le matin. Il faut dire que pour les maigres Bengalais, comparés aux Bhoutanais forts comme des taureaux, charrier des pierres énormes sur 3 étages n’est pas facile et beaucoup désertent le chantier’.

Au coeur du Dzong, forteresse monastique et administrative, l’atelier. Un moine restaure à la pointe de bambou une ancienne statue en terre sortie de la pénombre d’un temple tandis que Timi prépare ses savants mélanges de pigments importés d’Allemagne. Dans la cour, une dizaine de moines transportent sur un palanquin une lourde statue du Bouddha qui sera la pièce maîtresse du musée et la dépose avec précaution sur un piédestal. Simon, appareils en batterie, attend le soleil pour faire la photo du catalogue. ‘Ici, on passe le plus clair de son temps à attendre. C’est un bon exercice de patience…’

Pendant ce temps, d’échafaudages en passerelles, de coursives en labyrinthes, Goetz et Thomas, comme deux écoliers qui ont joué un bon tour à leur instituteur, nous invitent à venir découvrir leur vraie réussite : un puit de lumière qui tombe du haut des 30 mètres de la tour centrale et qui illuminera temples et galeries de lumière naturelle ! Audace architecturale, âpres négociations avec les autorités, mais là encore le jeune monarque, dont le couronnement est prévu en Mai de cette année, a tranché et il a offert à ce musée du bout du monde la coiffe de son aïeul Urgyen Wangchouk, le premier roi de la dynastie.

Les deux compères du musée de Patan sont en train de réussir un nouveau pari fou, si tant est que les vis et les clous arrivent à temps…

Tongsa, Bhoutan central
Jerome Edou

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